Single Serve Coffee Forums

dewalt1234 wrote:Hey guys, I've read most of the posts here on this thread, and wanted to get some advice.

My B70 (one month old!) has started to die. The LCD consistently says to prime. When I reseat the reservoir, it sometimes starts to pump water into the internal tank. Then sometimes, it will allow me to brew. Then if I'm lucky, I can brew two 8oz water cups out, before it wants me to prime again. I can do this probably once a day now.

The air pump seems fine (turns normally). Would appreciate anyone's thoughts on where I should look.

Also, I am getting a new one from Keurig. But if this one is fixable easily, why not have two

Sounds like you've got a bad seal introducing air into your water lines. Try cleaning the seals around the reservoir and the unit, and make sure nothing's gotten stuck in there. Beyond that, I can't think of much to do except check the tubing connections.

I recently repaired my Breville coffeemaker which is internally almost identical to the B70. The noisy water pump is now whisper quiet, but in the process of disassembling everything, I think I lost the prime on the air pump. I tried the method from page 1 of this thread for re-priming, but it doesn't seem to work for the Breville. I can't find the info elsewhere either. Currently, the boiler is filling w/o issue, but the water drips painfully slowly out of the brewer.

First, does this sound like what happens when you need to prime the machine?

Second, does anyone have the key/action sequence for entering prime mode on the Breville (model is BKC700xl)? Thanks in advance.

Can anyone give me some guidance as to what this problem could be? I made a clip of how it's performing..

http://youtu.be/7ivhWx-P0Tw

Anyone seen this? Worked a week ago.. Instead of pulling water in, then dispensing coffee, the motor turns on and water just flows out of both valves...

What happens with a k-cup in the brew chamber?
Tom

provencherscott wrote:Can anyone give me some guidance as to what this problem could be? I made a clip of how it's performing..

http://youtu.be/7ivhWx-P0Tw

Anyone seen this? Worked a week ago.. Instead of pulling water in, then dispensing coffee, the motor turns on and water just flows out of both valves...

^^^ Welcome. Someone posted a common solution in the comments section under your video. You might also try spraying canned air into the little white valve that water flows through on its way back into the reservoir. That said, when this happened to one of my B40s I just returned it for a warranty replacement.

provencherscott wrote:Can anyone give me some guidance as to what this problem could be? I made a clip of how it's performing..

http://youtu.be/7ivhWx-P0Tw

Anyone seen this? Worked a week ago.. Instead of pulling water in, then dispensing coffee, the motor turns on and water just flows out of both valves...

provencherscott,

I've been thinking about your problem and one piece of evidence would help finalize my theory. Could you remove the top, black K-Cup Arm cover (two screws underneath and some jockeying) and look at the water level in the Water Heater. I'm betting that it is always up to the top of the clear, plastic dome.

My theory is that during filling of the Water Heater, the water does not stop at the height of the lowest probe. It keeps on going up to the top and more, so it overflows out the K-Cup Arm until the Water Pump stops. Then, when you go to brew the next cup, the water level starts at the top, and as quickly as water is drawn from the Water Reservoir, it goes out the K-Cup Arm, and it also goes out the Overflow Tube into the Water Reservoir because of the Aft Pneumatic Solenoid Valve being open during the filling process.

If my theory holds true, a descaling and switching to a different type of water might help. The lowest probe might not be reporting the proper resistance back to the microprocessor with the type of water you are using.

Of course this is just a theory.

Well, I was looking into my problems with my Keurig B70 and this thread helped!

I called Keurig and they told me they would replace it for $97. That's more then we paid for it. I then started to take it apart. I had to break one of the clips on the top cover. I got to the motor and it is rusted and seized. I searched the model number and got one for $13 shipped. Once revived I will install it and prime my machine.

Thanks for the guide!

Well, my zombie B70 finally died. Bought the machine in 2007, so it's served it's purpose, especially since it was repaired 3 times over the years. Just last month, the motor started seizing, but worked fine with a tap on the side of the unit... well, last week it stopped turning on. Transformer looked ok, no rust or water marks, but it tested bad, so I got another from a unit that was missing a solenoid (parts unit). Installed the new transformer, and the b70 powered up and worked fine, I even cleaned the pump again and made a cup of coffee. Well, I woke up the next day, and the transformer blew again, something's going on with my unit's power board, and I'm not fixing it again... will call up keurig and see if they can send me a new one.

^^^ Welcome, Delons, and good luck to you, switch998.

Well, I am now having problems with priming.

I emptied the reservoir. Put in the water basin with water in it, it pumps the water into the reservoir then heats up and I press brew. After 60 seconds it still shuts off. I have tried this twice once with 120 seconds.

Thanks

I picked up a dead B70 recently and also found the transformer's thermal fuse broken. I bought a new transformer and decided to test it without a thermal fuse, keeping an eye on temperature and current. It powers up and works repeatedly now making my 'test coffee' every morning, but there is a definite current draw somewhere causing the transformer to overheat within 20-30 minutes or so. With all the hard death failures reported (no power), I'm assuming there is a common component on the unit that fails, thus creating the high current draw which trips the thermal transformer fuse and causes the unit to die. Anyone out there have any experience with what components are prone to 'electrical' failure creating the excess current draw? (the heating is maintained as long as the unit is plugged in, both off AND on, so my first thought is the solenoid drivers as the solenoids are still energized when the unit is off.)