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GetSet wrote:The air line check valve sounds like a good idea and should prevent that kind of catastrophe from happening, as long as it also allows mild backwards airflow when the hot water tank is first filling.
You will need to flip your unit on its side for the repair procedure. Lay cloths or paper towels underneath the unit, as it will leak from the K-CUP arm.
- Remove the bottom plate. There are a few Philips screws holding the metal plate on. The grounding wires are riveted onto the metal plate, preventing complete removal of the plate.
- You are now ready to remove the plastic frame. Locate the screws for this frame around the bottom edge of the unit. There is another screw by the drip tray, and another by the basin pump. Do not pull the frame yet.
- The basin pump and basin LEDs must be removed now. Locate the 1 screw for the LED and the 2 screws for the mouth of the basin pump. These are located directly below the basin.
- Pull the frame out and de-route the power cable (optional). Be careful of the basin pump, you will need to bend the tube connecting it to the pump. You may want to unscrew the pump.
- Remove the 2 screws from the underside of the K-CUP arm. Open the K-CUP arm. Remove the holder.
- Remove the 2 black screws located in front of the holder (inside bottom). The body piece will fall off, hold it up with your hand when unscrewing then pull it off.
- Look directly above of those 2 black screws, you should see two more screws on the top of the K-CUP arm. Remove those screws and slide the body piece out from underneath the handle.
- Remove the 2 screws securing the top cover to the frame of the unit. These are higher than the K-CUP arm's two screws. You only need to remove the top cover's two screws. Pull the top cover up from the gap, this will not remove it but it will loosen the clips for removal.
- Flip the unit on its side again.
- Get a flash light and look in the cavity where the water basin was, locate the clip securing the top cover of the unit to the case. It is located directly back of where you are looking, it is not on the side wall of the unit. Pry it back towards the back of the unit and push up. This requires a lot of force, you may want to use a long screwdriver or tiny crowbar.
- Stand the unit up again.
- While the unit is still on its side, pull up the top cover a bit more. Shine a flash light into the gap and locate another clip on the back side of the unit. Use a screwdriver to push and pry upwards on the clip. It should come loose. Do this for the next few clips as the come loose. Pull off the top cover.
- Unscrew the two screws above the LCD. Unscrew the screw securing the back cover to the front panel on the other side of the unit. Slide the back cover down and pull it back to remove.
- Your brewer is now fully disassembled. If i missed a step, please correct me, but i think everything is correct.
You can now replace the 2 valves in the unit, repair any leaks, repair electrical connections (the power board is located on the LCD side of the unit near the bottom in a black box.), repair non-functional pumps, and re-prime your brewer.
GetSet wrote:1. During the brewing cycle, put your finger over the overflow tube opening (above the water reservoir) to block it. If the water dispenses faster from the K-cup arm, then the aft valve is stuck open.
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