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Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby GetSet » Mon Sep 21, 2015 8:37 am

When this happens, can you see the water level in the outside reservoir decreasing (i.e., does it look like the water pump is running)? Or, does it sound more like the air pump is running like it would when it is brewing?
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby Woly » Wed Dec 23, 2015 4:47 pm

Is this document available anywhere else? I get a 404 not available error. " http://home.comcast.net/~michael.flynn3 ... 072112.pdf"
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby jbviau » Sat Dec 26, 2015 12:10 am

Woly wrote:Is this document available anywhere else? I get a 404 not available error. " http://home.comcast.net/~michael.flynn3 ... 072112.pdf"

Hi and welcome. I just updated a link to the relevant shared files in the main post. Here it is: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... sp=sharing
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby scar » Wed Jan 13, 2016 2:35 am

i think my air pump died so trying to replace it... seems a lot of people have issue getting the top cover off... i wish there were some good pictures because i just cannot figure it out...
switch998 wrote:[*] Remove the 2 screws securing the top cover to the frame of the unit. These are higher than the K-CUP arm's two screws. You only need to remove the top cover's two screws. Pull the top cover up from the gap, this will not remove it but it will loosen the clips for removal.

i took out the two screws but can't really pull up the top cover without a lot of effort... i can bend it up somewhat with a lot of effort but this seems to put even more pressure on the other clips that are still holding it in

[*] Get a flash light and look in the cavity where the water basin was, locate the clip securing the top cover of the unit to the case. It is located directly back of where you are looking, it is not on the side wall of the unit. Pry it back towards the back of the unit and push up. This requires a lot of force, you may want to use a long screwdriver or tiny crowbar.

not exactly sure what you're referring to here... if i look inside the unit from the bottom, i see what looks like a clip but it is clearly on the side of the unit

pictures are worth 1000 words....
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby scar » Wed Jan 13, 2016 2:43 am

also, is the KPM-32A-12A from http://www.clarksol.com/html/prodspecsKPMRPump.cfm still the recommended replacement air pump?
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby scar » Wed Jan 13, 2016 4:55 am

was finally able to get the top off using advice from this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qWDYGR3cq4

i still couldn't pry it off though... i think after so many misses, i deformed the plastic clips to the point they were stuck... i ended up having to drill some holes in the case underneath the clips, then pry from the holes--that worked really well but unfortunately i have holes in my case now.. no biggie
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby scar » Wed Jan 13, 2016 7:05 pm



thanks so much Dan for your illustrated guide! this should also be a sticky post since it was so helpful. i was able to disassemble and clean the rust out of my motor and now the air pump is working again! tested with a 9V battery
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby Bob Coffee » Wed Feb 17, 2016 1:40 pm

Hello,

Thanks for the care and feeding of this thread over the past few years. The files for the Theory of Operation are useful.

I trashpicked a B70 a few weeks ago, and it worked perfectly for a month, and then the performance degraded. I did the usual vinegar cleanout, although the water quality in my locality is quite good. So I followed the disassembly procedures, and experienced the usual annoyance with the hooked tabs that secure the upper cover. I broke the hooks off but the projecting tabs are still intact, and so when I reassemble the unit then I will drill through the back cover and secure the top cover with small screws, as this will simplify any future disassembly.

I have a few questions that can boil down to one or two. Has anybody measure the operating pressures of the unit with a manometer? A simple U-tube water, manometer could probably detect a malfunctioning pump (low pressure) or solenoid (a pressure differential across the valve) without the need for more invasive electrical testing of components.

Can anybody offer idea?
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby Godom1957 » Mon Mar 14, 2016 8:56 am

I have a K70 series in which I replaced the solenoid with a new one. It is a US Solid brand solenoid. Everything works great and solved my brewing problems so far but concerned on the heat of the solenoid. Mine is running around 140 degree F. Does anyone know what temperature they should be running when energized?
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby GetSet » Mon Mar 14, 2016 1:54 pm

I don't have a feel for how hot they should measure, and I don't remember anybody on this thread giving a typical temperature. You might compare how hot it is to the other solenoid (if it has one), because when the unit is at rest (plugged in, but not doing anything), both solenoids are energized. They should be about equally hot at that point. You probably did your homework on the solenoids, but I still have to ask whether you are sure the coil in the solenoid is rated for 12VDC and not something else. You could check the polarity of the wiring to the solenoid also, but I don't see why it would be a problem if it were reversed, unless there is a transient suppression diode packaged inside the solenoid. I seriously doubt it.
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby Godom1957 » Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:49 pm

Getset, did a bit more troubleshooting. My unit does have two solenoid which are identical. The other was much cooler but is only activated briefly during the brewing cycle so does not have much time to heat up. I checked ohm readings and got this. Original Fwd Solenoid 114.9 ohms Original Aft solenoid 122 ohms New US Solid solenoid 41.9 ohms. That may be the contributor to getting hot.
Since the new solenoid actually works and resolves my problem, I made a switch and installed it where the Aft solenoid was located since that one is only activated briefly. Should resolve the heat problem till I can get an OEM solenoid. Too, before making the switch, the US Solid brand heated up to 156 degree F.
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby GetSet » Thu Mar 17, 2016 2:21 pm

I don't have access inside a Keurig right now to judge the temperature of the solenoids. I do have an "original" working solenoid though, and I powered up the coil with a 12VDC supply to see how hot it would get. I have had trouble so far getting a good temperature reading, but I think it measures somewhere not too far above 110 degrees F. I can touch it firmly and continuously with my finger without burning myself. The solenoid I'm talking about was the original one for the B60/B70. The one used in your K70 might be different.
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby MarkRG » Wed Mar 30, 2016 11:48 pm

Hi, I have read through the whole thread, which does have a wealth of information if I do need to disassemble to repair my B70p.

However, I'm having the opposite problem from what I've been seeing discussed here. The pump works great, the air pump as well, and after removing the bottom plate and looking around with a flashlight I'm not seeing any indication of leakage.

What is happening is anytime the pump is being run by the unit, I am getting water out the k-cup line. Now in looking at the diagram, I think what is happening is the water level in the water heater isn't rising for the probe to detect it. It is instead being pushed out the K-cup line. What is missing off the diagram is any indication of which way flow is on the air circuit side.

By my guess, at the point where the unit is drawing water to fill the water heater, not brew through the cup, the aft solenoid should be open to allow air to escape the water heater into the line that goes into the top of the reservoir, via that double tipped vent. It then should shut at brew to allow the air motor to purge the K line. If that's the case, it's pushing through the mesh both directions, and I am seeing it actually purge the K line so the mesh should be clear. that would point me at a bad or clogged aft solenoid. American Sci is literally down the street from me if I need to go get a new solenoid valve.

The unit has always seen osmosis filtered water, on top of Chicago water which isn't all that hard to begin with. And I've regularly been doing the Vinegar thing. I can't say how old it is other than very. I'd really like to fix it over replacing it. Thanks for any input.
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby MarkRG » Thu Mar 31, 2016 8:36 am

Small AM update.
I did find the theory of operation pdf. I had tried the original 'home.comcast' links which have been long expired and figured it was lost and stopped looking. So I do have the way it works down correctly.

I have tried the burp method, the reset buttons, and the leave it upside down overnight thing, no difference. Have been dancing around the take it apart step which I'll probably be doing tonight.

In testing it this morning, I'm more thinking clog than bad valve. Doing the vinegar doesn't reach the air side so there could be buildup someplace in there. It is still going through the brew cycle, so the water heater must be at least partially venting for the water level to rise to the point to hit the higher probes and trigger the air purge step. Possibly just not fast enough that some water is being pushed when it isn't supposed to.
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Re: Dissassembly + Repair Guide - Keurig B70 Platinum

Postby GetSet » Thu Mar 31, 2016 2:58 pm

It sounds like you understand the way it works pretty well. The aft solenoid valve should be open during the filling phase to allow air to evacuate the hot water tank and make room for the water to fill the tank. If the valve is stuck closed, this can't happen, so the air will compress as much as it can, and then the water has to exit through the K-cup arm because there is nowhere else to go. I'm suspecting the aft valve myself rather than a clog in the air lines, since they should remain pretty clean unless there was some catastrophic thing that happened that forced water through the air lines at some point in the past. As you said though, enough water is filling the tank to brew, so at least some air must be getting through the aft valve.

The electric probes are usually what sense when the hot water tank should stop filling, but should they fail for some reason (or the water level never gets to them in the first place), I think that there may be secondary failsafe conditions that will cause it to stop filling. It could be a simple timeout after a while, or it may read the air pressure sensor to figure out what is going on.
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